Monday, April 6, 2009

Moj stan (My apartment)

Skadarska Ulica // Skadarlija, our street
Our view of the mural painted on the old brewery across the street (it's not working anymore)
Gaby & Rachel's bedroom
The dining room, kitchenette, front door
Gaby in the living room/my bedroom (I'm sleeping on the pullout)

The trippiest, bluest bathroom you've ever seen...

*to be continued*

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Back in Belgrade =)

I'm here for the next four weeks to do my ISP research!

We had a pretty miserable bus ride from Zagreb. We had to wait at the border for almost two hours - maybe there is only one customs officer working on Sundays?? So, it took us forever to get here... the bus was sooo hot, we didn't have any food and, at one point, we stopped for a bathroom break and the toilet cost five Euros! Five Euros to pee! That's crazy!

I'm living in a small apartment with Rachel and Gaby. The neighborhood is called Skadarlija (Скадарлија) and it's beautiful - it's the bohemian quarter of the city. I came down here one afternoon when I was here in March and I love it. There are a lot of nice restaurants (nice = white tablecloth) and cafes along the street. It's a cobblestone pedestrian zone, with a lot of nice trees and benches and such. It's also a short walk from Republic Square, which is the center of the city. In all, really nice, but I can definitely see that we're paying for the location with our rent money...

Our apartment is great. We have a big living area and a small dining room/kitchen. Actually, not really a kitchen - more like a minifridge and a hot plate. We have one bedroom with two beds (I'm sleeping in the living room on one of the pullouts). I'm very happy to have my own space again!!

Tomorrow, we'll be changing some money (the value of the dollar is killing us - what is going on over there?!), shopping for some stuff for the apartment (like laundry detergent), and starting work on our research. More later!!

Love from Belgrade,
Liz
Лиз

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Out of the frying pan...

and into the fire.

I'm waiting to meet with my AD to see if my independent study project proposal will be approved (or not). I've spent the last few days carefully constructing a final proposal about my work on Roma issues. The entire proposal is seven pages and includes an introduction to my project, a literature review, my research methodology, resources at my research site, a timeline of my project and interview questions. Many fingers are crossed... I will be under a lot of stress if this doesn't get approved in this meeting!

My tentative title is, "Social Policies towards Development and Roma Integration in Belgrade: A Case Study of the Proposed Gazela Resettlement Project." I will be studying how social policies towards the Roma people are applied in Belgrade and how these policies influence the integration of Roma people with the greater community. Currently, there is a movement to relocate the inhabitants of the Gazela settlement, a slum located under the Gazela Bridge. I am using this situation as a case study to learn more about the proposed resettlement project and how social policies (regarding welfare benefits like housing) are applied and can help the Roma people be empowered and become integrated in the city of Belgrade.

That's a lot condensed into one paragraph and it's probably horribly vague and confusing to you... at this point, I've stated and restated my research goals so many times to myself and to the AD that even I'm not sure what I'm studying anymore. Eh.

***update!***
I have to quote Tom Hanks in The Terminal, "You have two stamp: one red, one green. So, I have chance to go to New York 50-50." Well, I got the green stamp of approval for my ISP! I'm going to Belgrade!!

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Oops

Alex snapped this photo of me napping during a stop on our walking tour of Mostar last Tuesday... I have no comment.

Monday, March 30, 2009

Photos from Bosnia

Dubrovnik:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lzkblr/Dubrovnik?authkey=Gv1sRgCKHPmKPYp8ahKA&feat=directlink

Mostar:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lzkblr/Mostar?feat=directlink

Sarajevo:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lzkblr/Sarajevo?feat=directlink

Banja Luka & Sanski Most:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lzkblr/BanjaLukaSanskiMost?feat=directlink

SICK

I am really sick! I came down with something on Friday and had a fever of over 100 degrees until late Saturday. It mostly feels like someone is sitting on my chest - it's hard to breathe and I'm coughing a lot. I spent the entire weekend at home and I'm still not sure if I'll go to all of my classes today. And what a week to miss class -we have our final classes for everything this week, since we begin ISP time on Sunday! I have a final paper due Thursday along with my final ISP proposal... hopefully my AD will sign off on everything. Luckily, I found an advisor for my project on Friday and Rachel confirmed our apartment in Belgrade, so those are 2 things I don't need to worrry about.

Hopefully I'll upload the pictures from Bosnia later today!

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Snowy in Sarajevo

Let's see... We got to Sarajevo on Thursday evening. We went straight to the hotel, which is really swanky (even by American standards). Some rooms have lofts and skylights and stuff, which is pretty awesome, but I'm in a normal suite with 2 other girls, Fiona and Emily. .

On Friday morning, we went to the War Crimes Court of BiH. This was a great visit. We learned about the Court's functions and were introduced to various employees - legal aides, spokespeople, etc. Right now, the Court is hearing the trial of two men indicted for war crimes committed at Srebrenica (where a mass killing of 8,000 Bosnjak males occurred in 1995). We watched the testimony and questioning of a witness from Srebrenica over closed circuit TV (they translate everything to English in real time!).

Yesterday, we had a city tour bright and early. We went to some sites that were important during the Siege of Sarajevo. We went to the Sarajevo Tunnel Museum. The tunnel used to get supplies and people in and out of the city during the Siege. It was pretty remarkable, but also scary. The footage we watched showed the entrance to the tunnel during the war - there were shells were falling everywhere, everything was blown apart, and people were running through trenches. We were standing in the same spot today, which looks totally normal, except for some shrapnel marks in the concrete. It was really disturbing for me and makes me think twice when I walk down a seemingly normal street in Sarajevo and think that 14 years ago, it was a war zone. The men we met at the museum also talked about using the tunnel during the war and how the humanitarian aid they received from the U.S. was awful and, in some cases, useless.

It made me feel so helpless - sometimes, all I want to do is apologize for the (in)actions of my country during the 1990s. Americans would be ashamed if they knew the amount of times the U.S., NATO and the UN could have prevented the atrocities here. Don't even get me started on Srebrenica (Hasan Nuhanovic spoke to us today). Of course, that is probably true about intervention during any event in modern history. I'm not saying that the U.S. should intervene in every conflict area, but its wishy-washy policies drive me crazy.

Luckily, Saturday night, we participated in a lively, lighthearted drumming circle with 3 guys from Musicians Without Borders, whose organization here works on peace building through music. They told us about their activities and then we played samba reggae for two hours! And today, I went to noon Mass at the Cathedral, which - surprise, surprise - was in English! There were about 20 people there and the priest asked me to lead the Prayers of the Faithful. It was so great!

Tomorrow, I'm going to try to find the Women for Women office here, since we have most of the day off. I hope I have the right address!

P.S. It's been snowing all weekend, hence the title of my post.